Boss tuner pedals?

[black_matter]

It took me less time to do a quick search and get the ballpark figure of 55 than it took you to write that reply' date=' probably.

And G, most tuners aren't easy to read from 6 feet away on a dark stage.[/quote']

fair enough but its also a pretty relevant point i made in makiong this thread because i've now got a range of different options of pedals to think of. It would be useful to have the option of the tuner pedal onstage but what i need to do is to sort out what my priority pedals are because i've just started my collection. I may leave it until i get a few more quid in my pocket

[soundian]

Most guitar shops will sell them' date=' dont be tempted into buying an expensive active one, the cheapo ones will do the job, and as for seeing the tuner, most decent tuners you can see ok, or tape it to a monitor or on top of your amp....simple![/quote']

If you buy a cheapo one, make sure it doesn't click when you switch, it'll be a hardware switch rather than an electronic one.

[soundian]

fair enough but its also a pretty relevant point i made in makiong this thread because i've now got a range of different options of pedals to think of. It would be useful to have the option of the tuner pedal onstage but what i need to do is to sort out what my priority pedals are because i've just started my collection. I may leave it until i get a few more quid in my pocket

But you only asked about the cost of the boss tuner. Never mind, the thread is handy for people anyway.

If money is tight, I would consider the TU100, I don't think it'll stand any sort of abuse, it doesn't seem to be made to be fixed, and you'll probably have to buy a new one in about a year, but if you'll have more money in a year, it might be worth a look.

[Guest lime ruined my life]

On the topic of the behringer, i think its more than good value for money, you can't get better than 15 pounds for a working floor tuner, and you could rehouse it if you were feeling ambitious or if it broke.

If you buy a cheapo one' date=' make sure it doesn't click when you switch, it'll be a hardware switch rather than an electronic one.[/quote']

all switches are hardware, it's just some are momentary and some are latch. I'm assuming you mean latch switches (they click). I think that if you get a "non clicking one" it'd have to be active, as it would have to use logic switching. I think an active a/b box would also have buffering (see my article )

Latch switches are like people, you get good ones and bad ones. Generally the cheaper the device the cheaper the switch. Big muff switches often fail, even the expensive ones. The thing is all the factories which used to make good quality switches have been running for 20-30 years. The production lines have started to deteriorate and quality control is almost non-exsistent as all the big pedal manufacturers use their own style of switches (the big panel style switches of boss). The only really reliable switches i know of are the big blue style tawainese 3pdt swictches. (these'l run for years and years without failing)

Carling switches are sometimes ok and sometimes not. Zachery Vex mentioned on a forum that he bought a massive batch of them and over half were faulty straight from the supplier.

Z.vex now make their own (quality controlled) switches, which they will sell you if you order a batch over 1000, and if you ask nicely. Pete cornish uses another style of switch which are large but sturdy.

In the end, if the switch breaks, go to maplin and buy another one for around £1, its a simple soldering fix, and it'l keep it going another 6 months at least.

p.s if you're even more practical you can fix the switch by taking it apart and gluing the small plastic leg which has cracked back on. (the cause of broken switches 9 times out of 10)

[HeinzHines]

Surely the sturdiness of the Behringer tuner is neither here nor there? I certainly wouldnt be attacking a floor tuner in the same manner i would a distortion pedal, i would only be lightly activiating it with a gentle foot after a song had finished.

I cant see it being that bad to be honest, its only 15 so its pretty much a bargain any way you look at it.

[Spoonie]

what's the deal with the sensitivity/accuracy of tuners because i remember reading about the boss TU2 compared to something called the stroboscopic (which cost a fortune) and the reviews were slating the TU2 cos it's not that accurate. are you likely to find it even worse with the behringer?

/x

[Old Gold]

Likely problem with the Behringer is the bypass. I've read of people hating the Fender floor tuner because it guzzles tone like a bastard. Although that's because it's completely passive. if the Behringer takes a battery, then it might be worth a look.

At fifteen quid, it's not a huge gamble... but I'd save up for the Boss. It's not like it would ever need upgraded.

[soundian]

On the topic of the behringer' date=' i think its more than good value for money, you can't get better than 15 pounds for a working floor tuner, and you could rehouse it if you were feeling ambitious or if it broke.

all switches are hardware, it's just some are momentary and some are latch. I'm assuming you mean latch switches (they click). I think that if you get a "non clicking one" it'd have to be active, as it would have to use logic switching. I think an active a/b box would also have buffering (see my article )

[/quote'] I did specify the cheapo A/B boxes, which are passive, and therefore latching.

[Guest lime ruined my life]

I did specify the cheapo A/B boxes' date=' which are passive, and therefore latching.[/quote']

from my personal experience the tougher/harder/louder the click, the sturdier the switch is. I've used switches that have a minimal click and have found they are usually the first to go. Thats just my experience though.

[Guest lime ruined my life]

what's the deal with the sensitivity/accuracy of tuners because i remember reading about the boss TU2 compared to something called the stroboscopic (which cost a fortune) and the reviews were slating the TU2 cos it's not that accurate. are you likely to find it even worse with the behringer?

/x

If you were spending a lot more on a tuner than the tu-2 costs new then you'd be using it for specific studio applications. The tu-2 is more than fine for live use, the only limiting thing is the scale of sharp/flat is measured via discrete leds, but i think it's perfect for live use otherwise why so many people wouldnt buy it.

[Guest lime ruined my life]

Likely problem with the Behringer is the bypass. I've read of people hating the Fender floor tuner because it guzzles tone like a bastard. Although that's because it's completely passive. if the Behringer takes a battery' date=' then it might be worth a look.

.[/quote']

best solution is not to have it directly in your signal path, use an a/b box or volume pedal!

[Guest Gasss]

I connect My Fender PT-10 pedal tuner to the tuner send from my volume pedal so it's not in the chain. It still makes a background noise when it's switched on.

[Guest lime ruined my life]

I connect My Fender PT-10 pedal tuner to the tuner send from my volume pedal so it's not in the chain. It still makes a background noise when it's switched on.

weird, have you tried using a battery in it?

[Guest Gasss]

weird' date=' have you tried using a battery in it?[/quote']

I haven't but I probably should

[Danny Doubt]

look at my avatar do me a favour...get one!

[stevealex35]

i would honestly play safe and get the TU-2. I had another 3rd party chromatic tuner before and it was pish, cost me £40. I wouldnt even bother with cheap ones, by the time youv gone through a couple youd have as well gone for the boss. I got one and its absolutely spot on, the difference it makes is amazing!!!

Steve

[Guest Gasss]

i had another 3rd party chromatic tuner before and it was pish' date='

[/quote']

Boss: the official manufacturer of guitar pedals

[Preid]

Boss: the official manufacturer of guitar pedals

I tune with boss:up:

[57vintage]

I've been using the TU-2 for 18 months.

It works fine and is extrememly visible on a dark "stage".

55 + P&P from http://www.soundslive.co.uk/product~name~Boss-TU-2~ID~743.asp

[spbear5]

I lve this bit "Conceived and designed by BEHRINGER " bollocks' date=' conceived and designed by Boss, put together using chewing gum and leccy tape by Behringer more like.[/quote']

Lol Spot on there! I looked for a cheaper option than the Boss pedal but Behringer are a step too far, no weight to it and pretty flimsy material! For stage use and build quality the Boss is brilliant, it may cost a little bit more but you get what you pay for. Mine has been subject to the usual rigours of a pedal's life, plus an unintentional beer wash one night, and works as perfectly as it did on day one.

[Mac Atom]

Lol Spot on there! I looked for a cheaper option than the Boss pedal but Behringer are a step too far' date=' no weight to it and pretty flimsy material![/quote']

I just picked up the Behringer Noise Reducer pedal and their Compressor/Sustainer, 35 delivered and they do the job like. There just going to go on the board and pretty much get left on so I can't see how their likely to get damaged, even if they do - 15... who cares?

The plastic casing is a little bit scary if you're going to be stomping on it like a crazy person but I've had a really cheap Ibanez delay pedal for ages and its plastic, as long as you don't jump on it with all your weight it can pretty much take anything.

[spbear5]

Point taken, I'm being a bit harsh on the Behringer there. :O

It does open a point though in that if they can produce these pedals, which are perfectly decent quality, for the price they're retailing for,are other companies ripping us all off? If the internal electronics are equivalent, is Boss charging me 40 more just for a fancy metal box? ?(

[Guest idol_wild]

I'm a massive fan of the Boss TU-2. I got one in perfect condition for 35 through these forums. More than worth the money. It's sturdy, accurate, and doesn't affect the overall guitar tone.

In terms of effects pedals though, it's all about Digitech 8)

[Guest lime ruined my life]

It does open a point though in that if they can produce these pedals' date=' which are perfectly decent quality, for the price they're retailing for,are other companies ripping us all off? If the internal electronics are equivalent, is Boss charging me £40 more just for a fancy metal box? ?([/quote']

cheapest estimates for average customer:

metal enclosure = £ 4 depending on size

pots = £3 (lets estimate 3 pots at £1 each)

switch = £3 depending on type (x2)

jacks = £2 each

resistors = say 10p each, and a rough average of 30-40 in a circuit = £3

capacitors = say £3 aswell

chips = 40p each, average of 4 in a circuit, £2

thats a total of £23 already, and thats not including manufacturing costs of main boards, drilling, wires , or costs of designs for boxes/nobs. This would be for a cheap well established booster/distortion design that requires nothing in the way of desiging circuits. Construction time for one man would be maybe 1-2 hours. All this considered the price of say £50 for a pedal would seem reasonable, and thats before any profit.

a complicated pedal like the tu-2 which uses smd resistors and caps, and requires specialist factory/machinery is not surprisingly over £70 retail.

Taking this into acount the berghinger tuner pedal price is nothing short of remarkable. As long as you look after the enclosure i can't see much going wrong apart from the usual mechanical failures such as jack connections and switches, which are easily repairable and more than acceptable for this price.

The answer in the price diff has to lie in the sourcing or materials, compromising on parts (switching metal for plastic enclosures) and competative pricing.

[spbear5]

"a complicated pedal like the tu-2 which uses smd resistors and caps, and requires specialist factory/machinery is not surprisingly over 70 retail"

And worth every penny.