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valve amp servicing


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yeah, get some new tubes. but do this first, before you try the new tubes.

1. Take ALL the tubes out.

2. Put in a good fuse

3. Power it up.

If the fuse blows take it to get repaired- you've blown your power tranny or some of the parts in the power supply and the voltages are running away. If it doesn't blow the fuse then try it with new tubes.

Oh, don't try this with a valve state or hybrid solid-state amp. It's got to have pre-amp and power amp tubes.

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if a fuse blows' date=' i wouldnt worry straight away, first replace it with a new fuse (make sure its the same ratings)

if it works then cool, fuses blow sometimes, if it blows again take it to a tech

David[/quote']

Normally I'd agree, but he's also got a power valve that's fried too. So, one of several things has gone wrong. Here's at least 3:

1. The tube is bad. No problem, a new fuse and a new tube and you're all set.

2. The power transformer is bad.

3. One of the resistors that stablize the valve is old and blown.

Before you risk a valve and a couple of fuses, pull all the valves and put in a new fuse. If it runs off standby without popping that fuse, all you need is a valve. If it's #2 or #3 you're going to eat the replacement valve. Save the money.

BTW, an amp doesn't blow a fuse because the fuse was bad. The fuse blows because it's seeing too much current. The problem is why.

If you're uncomfortable taking advice like this off a forum check out Gerald Weber's 'Desktop Reference to Hip Vintage Amps' or Aspen Pitmans 'Tube Amp Book'. Either one can walk you through some basic troubleshooting. They're great references and may save you an un-needed trip to a tech. You don't need to be an electrician to read them either.

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  • 3 years later...

Biased Information

Hey -

You should have started to hear a few less pleasant sounds from your amp if the valves were getting tired -

However it may well still be power tube going pop

Depending on the type of valve amplifier however it may not be of the modern self biasing type - (that is an automatic circuit). Usually you have to use a screwdriver on a pot or two and a meter setup on 350-450 Volt rails - something that it's worth paying a tech to do. The purpose in this is that we want the two or four matched valves to draw together equally and within their operating limits. Anyone who has a Class A type amp does not use this matched pairing of amplifier valves (push-pull/ back to back) operation and this becomes less of an issue

The joy of valve amps is the ability to rebias most of them to take heaps of different valves based around the same pinout.

http://www.watfordvalves.com/pdfs/guitaristv02-01_biasing.pdf

A nice starter for people not sure what to expect from valves -

Marshall Amps :: The Secret Life Of Valves

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