Milkman

Alesis Ion Nord Electro 3 Lex Bos Superdrive 2

o_Oo_Oo_O I'll stick with my Mark II! BTW my only purchase this year will be a footswitch for it. (if I can ever find one at a reasonable price)

.: tube screamers :.

[/pedant mode]Do you mean the TI RC4558P? [/pedant mode]

If we're being pedantic... There is only one JRC, which is the JRC4558D present in both the OD808 and Drivetrain. Because of this, I agree with the above that it's the rest of the circuit, not the IC that makes more of a difference. I don't mean to knock the modded Tubescreamers, I'm sure they do sound better than stock, in the same way that if I took my car to Star Performance to get all the major components uprated, it would be a better car. The question is will it be cost efficient? As we both seem to agree that the original tube screamer circuit has been surpassed, all I am suggesting is that there is an alternative to a man with a soldering iron. Tube screamers command a price premium on name alone, when other more well sorted TS clones (such as the Voodoo Labs Sparkle Drive, The Reverend Drivetrain and The Visual Sound V2 Route 808) don't. You might save some cash selling and buying on ebay, as I did. P.S. Before anyone mentions authenticity, any new tubescreamer (not made by Maxon) is technically a copy.

I wouldn't bother with chip swaps. I used to have a JRC4558 equipped maxon 808 which sounded no better than a current TS9 reissue. My favourite tube screamer mod was to sell it and buy a Reverend Drivetrain. That improved the sound immensely.

This is one of those empty dummy cabs that R&B had in their marshall section. It isn't built like a proper 4x12 and is for decoration only.

Supreme.

Captain Ho Ho Welfare Mothers

Great songs (obviously) Great production Voice like a drainpipe

Just been having a browse of the xbox-scene.com forums (worth a look). Some reports that if your console is < 3 years and has the warranty seal intact, they'll repair RROD for free - even if you're not the original owner.

You could always just try phoning microsoft, giving them the serial number and seeing where the land lies. Or you could phone up, tell them you bought it second hand and that it has RROD. Seriously, if it's not the 3 red rings, they're not terribly interested. This is shameful IMHO.

jesus christ

Basically, it's borked. Assuming you didn't buy it from a shop... You need to know: 1) If the 360 is still in warranty (<12 months) 2) Serial number (on the back) 3) If it has been registered already with Microsoft (if so you will need the original owners name and email) If it is in warranty, you can phone up Microsoft (0800 587 1102), tell them about the problem and get it repaired. If it is out of warranty, tell them it has RROD (3 red rings), is not starting up and (when they ask) that the PSU light is green. Bingo.

I'm glad I left Aberdeen

Seconded ++++ I've owned 5 USA ASATs over the last 9 years and currently have 3. You can buy a Tribute (Korean-made) model for 300 if you shop around. They have USA hardware and are just as well built (though have horrible tortoiseshell pickguards). RRP for the USA models is around 1k but you can get them secondhand on eBay for around 500. I've never paid more than 600 for one. G&L are the USA guitar industries best kept secret (apart from maybe Heritage). I'd actually prefer you ignored my advice (most people do) so that there's more around for me to buy. USA Fenders are overpriced but will depreciate less and hold their resale value. Wildcard entry: Fender Lite Ash Telecaster (my choice if G&L didn't exist) As for the Fender highway series - I have a highway 1 body on my frankenstein strat. Whenever I lift it off the guitar stand, bits of the finish remain stuck. eeek.

I quite fancy some of the Pete Cornish pedals - especially the soft sustain and ultra-reinforced big muff (that stands a chance of not breaking). I'd also like to get him to build all my pedals into one unit with controls that can only be operated from the inside - to stop me compulsively fiddling.

Keeley DS1 is not my choice for the same reasons as you but it does what it says on the tin - distortion. I think the DS-1 is the most distortiony distortion there is.

I own/ have owned EH Big Muff (Sovtek) - broke EH Big Muff (USA) - broke BK Butler Realtube - not bad with a treble booster but too big (sold) Rat 2 - older, flat model (2000). much better than the new, wedge-shaped ones Crowther Audio Hotcake - ace! Still on my pedalboard. Loves treble boosters. Maxon OD-808 - (sold) OK, but not as good as... Reverend Drivetrain - amazing 808 clone with lots of low end Danelectro Fabtone - WTF Boss DS-2 - Only ever used for DS-1 mode. Sold Vox Over The Top Boost - I can't get enough of this - treble is set to ten. I win Zvex Fuzz Probe - (sold) Okay but annoying and not as good as... Roger Mayer Octavia - ringmodulator, octave, fuzz, all I have to do is move gtr's vol knob. Tech 21 Sansamp Acoustic DI - used as treble / level boost for valve amp. Broke. Mk I Marshall Guvnor - a lot like the RAT2. Cool but surplus to my needs - SOLD Also, have owned two Tech 21 Trademark 60 combos at different times (but I won't get into the amps) I tend to use treble boosters and compressors into valve amps to get overdrive these days. I still use the hotcake for a solo boost and the octavia for doom/freakout sounds. I would recommend OD - Reverend Drivetrain II (ebay), Hotcake (buy direct from Paul Crowther) Dist - Keeley DS1, old-style rat 2 (ebay), Big muff for stoner sounds (but it WILL break), absolutely anything by tech 21 Fuzz - anything by roger mayer or DAM

Primavera's good. People know how to behave and you can take the tube to Parc Guell. In 2006 I saw Steve Albini eating a crepe, then danced to Ellen Allien! I'd be excited about this year, if I was still alive.