David

because that jacket is undoubtably the ultimate in cool...

David

wav being the standard because it is a direct conversion of cdda to a computer readable file, being exactly the same quality (16bit, 44.2KHz)

Files like mp3, wma or most other computer audio formats all reduce the quality and compress the file to make them smaller than a wav file (mp3 works through progressively reducing the frequencys beyond human hearing - the more compression the more is removed) apart from some of the lossless formats .shn and .flac being the two I know of (though there will probably be others) which reduce the file size and keep the quality (not sure exactly how, similar to how winzip reduces files or something I guess)

for burning to cd, keep it all as wav, to keep the quality as high as possible

David

Lovie, celtic; Scottish; Ending with -Ie

I don't know what I was actually expecting to be honest, its a Scottish name, but I know of only a couple other Lovies around here apart from my immediate family

David

£699 for the head and £299 for the cab

Thats for the DR103 sitting straight onfront of you inside the door

There was a head sitting on the floor a day or two before that was £699, not sure if thats the same one just with a cab or what

David

I saw it when I was in last week

I want it...

sadly I would get murdered if I took it home

I also want your bassman

I don't think its illegal to sell gear with the older connectors, only to make them new (much stricter rules), which is why they have to change those for modern IEC leads on the Marshall handwired amps for example

David

are you sure this isn't just an mxr micro amp clone?

Nope, modified Rangemaster clone

Scott, if you want, I have an EQ and a couple of Boost pedals I could let you try if you liked, not really the best boutique pedals out there, but definately servicable to give you an idea of how it would sound.

Some Eq's are noisey, I know you can get mods for the Boss GE-7 to quieten it down, and the Dano mini is supposed to excellent sounding, especially for the cash

As for pickups, check out Kent Armstrong, great sounds for little cash...

David

i'd never buy SD again' date=' although i have heard good things about the phat cats.[/quote']

Fair enough

Checked today, the control plate itself is the same size as a US one, so I can buy a generic replacement to get a plate with the correct hole sizing. So I should be getting that ordered up soon then get the guitar finished

David

On the topic of the behringer' date=' i think its more than good value for money, you can't get better than 15 pounds for a working floor tuner, and you could rehouse it if you were feeling ambitious or if it broke.

all switches are hardware, it's just some are momentary and some are latch. I'm assuming you mean latch switches (they click). I think that if you get a "non clicking one" it'd have to be active, as it would have to use logic switching. I think an active a/b box would also have buffering (see my article )

Latch switches are like people, you get good ones and bad ones. Generally the cheaper the device the cheaper the switch. Big muff switches often fail, even the expensive ones. The thing is all the factories which used to make good quality switches have been running for 20-30 years. The production lines have started to deteriorate and quality control is almost non-exsistent as all the big pedal manufacturers use their own style of switches (the big panel style switches of boss). The only really reliable switches i know of are the big blue style tawainese 3pdt swictches. (these'l run for years and years without failing)

[img']http://www.arielfx.com/small_pics/3PDT%20Blue.jpg

Carling switches are sometimes ok and sometimes not. Zachery Vex mentioned on a forum that he bought a massive batch of them and over half were faulty straight from the supplier.

Z.vex now make their own (quality controlled) switches, which they will sell you if you order a batch over 1000, and if you ask nicely. Pete cornish uses another style of switch which are large but sturdy.

In the end, if the switch breaks, go to maplin and buy another one for around 1, its a simple soldering fix, and it'l keep it going another 6 months at least.

p.s if you're even more practical you can fix the switch by taking it apart and gluing the small plastic leg which has cracked back on. (the cause of broken switches 9 times out of 10)

To my knowledge ZVex use the 'standard' blue 3pdt like the picture you posted, thats whats in my Fuzz Factory at least... I have only ever seen the one 3pdt switch out there, used by most of the boutique guys and diy'er and so on

Cornish uses different switches as he uses buffered bypass not true bypass, so only needs a small switch to trigger an electronic switch, not the 3pdt as you would need to get true bypass and an led.

If you want the blue switches, check out www.monkeyfx.co.uk and www.wah-wah.co.uk for two uk sites, I have bought from both and they are both very helpful, both definately recommended

David

I connect My Fender PT-10 pedal tuner to the tuner send from my volume pedal so it's not in the chain. It still makes a background noise when it's switched on.

EB volume pedals tuner out?

in that case, don't bother with the tuner out, and get yourself an a/b box (can be made easily and pretty cheaply yourself if you know which end of a soldering iron to hold) the way that the EB is designed, whatever you plug into the tuner out loads down and could add noise to the main signal, an a/b box removes it completely when not in use

David

It's not too uncommon to find this sort of thing' date=' pcb designs are sold or factories are taken over by other companies, i'd seriously doubt it was just photocopied. I know someone who got an email from dunlop for selling a single mxr micro-amp clone telling them to stop or be taken to court. I doubt if a large company like beringher would get away with it without a lawsuit.[/quote']

The mycloneamp? I have forgotten the name, but a chap from the Netherlands who posts on harmony central did them. That was to do with him copying the MXR logo (with HWA in the logo instead of MXR one) and the design of the microamp - same colours and designs

Behringer did have some problems with the new pedals a while ago before they were released, as origonally they were much closer to boss in design, which was changed...

David

For a pedal, some form of overdrive, so the Microamp, Tubescreamer or anythign else in that vein.

An EQ would be more versatile as to boosting certain frequencys, but it depends on how you have your amp set - if its already starting to break up then it could be the job to push it over the edge, but an overdrive could give you more gain, it depends on how you have your amp set (using an overdrive channel on your fender?) and what sound you are after

the best plan for if you have low output pickups would be new pickups, you can get higher output singlecoils or singlecoil sized humbuckers depending on ho wmuch gain and what sound you want, as always though, that would most likely be at the expense of some of the clean sound

David

The fender switches have an inherent design flaw in that it is open. You get closed ones which by design are already shielded (well tele ones are in contact with the control plate so it's grounded' date=' strats could similarly be grounded via a wire or a metal scratchplate)

imo this is a mere marketing excersise so people end up buying more expensive usa fenders which have better sheilding in the cavities.

i stick to alpha pots although i have nothing against cts, i just find alpha easier to get ahold of and i don't trust fender electronic parts, although i find the mini pots useful for pedals as you can cram more inside smaller enclosures, i havn't had a prooblem with them. The only pots i've really found to be really bad are the ones found in the black russian big muff, i think they're sovtek, in any case avoid them.

while on the topic of sd pickups, i wouldn't reccomend the lil 59' either. I'm not entirely happy with the hot rail but it is a pretty specialist pickup.

im going to avoid sd in future, my next pickup is going to be the standard strat pickup from bill lawrence, it's really highly reccomended and pretty cheap considering they're hand made.[/quote']

I went for a Fender switch because it was open...

Shielding is not an issue, as I just shielded the guitar myself, and in the past I got a closed switch and it has been horrible and crackley and basically useless, an open switch being a lot easier to give a quick clean.

CTS pots I got after hearing they are one of the better brands, I thought they were a separate brand from Fender though, just used by them.

I didn't really like the JB pickup I had, but the Phat Cat I just put in sounds awesome, as do the Custom and Stag mag I stuck in another guitar, top marks to them from me...

David

True... Although at the time of the job' date=' I hadn't really intended on selling the guitar... ever. So meh

What pickup did you put in it anyway?[/quote']

Hell, you can't see it from the outside so its fine with me. It's not as if it affects the sound...

I put in an SD Phat Cat, a humbucker sized p90. I wasn't completely happy with the JB so went for this for a more singlecoiley type sound, but with balls, which it has. Definately recommended.

Can't really say exactly what it was I disliked about the JB, kinda muffled sounding to me if that makes sense, the Custom I just put in my other guitar sounded much nicer to me. Just what I like I guess, the JB seems to get great revews elsewhere.

David

Sorry for making an obvious point' date=' but isn't this the sort of thing you check before diving into a wiring job?[/quote']

Like using the correct tools for the job? Like not routing out a guitar with a fucking hammer or whatever it was you used to hack it apart with

Awesome guitar regardless, and even better with the new pickup, it will have to be prized out of my cold dead hands. (and even moreso when I actually get controls on it again, rather than the bridge pickup wired directly to the jack...)

(BTW, before anyone starts an argument, this post was mostly tounge in cheek)

David

this happened to me too' date=' i took a saw and a drill, and i made them fit. I find it hillarious that fender have "official" switches and pots which cost ridiculous money, only fit the most expensive fender guitars and they're no better than any other standard switches/pots, and in some cases a lot worse.[/quote']

I would take a drill to the control plate I have, except for the fact I don't know what its made of. So it could be stainless steel or something and come out fine, or it could be chrome plated something or other leaving me with the plating chipping off...

The fender switches seem decent enough, and the pots I got are CTS, which seem to be regarded as some of the better ones (incidentally also used in some fenders, including my mim bass) so all the parts seem solid enough, and I would rather use tham than have to switch to the mini pots like were in it before or whatever...

David

Well when you buy Fender branded parts for a Fender guitar, I made the huge jump of logic in assuming that said parts would fit the guitar. being made by the same company and bought as a tele wiring kit.

I will give RnB a call today and see if they actually have any new control plates in stock and will check to see they actually fit

David

...then to find that Fender Japan seemingly uses differently sized parts to the rest of fender, so the fender switch and cts pots I ordered are too big for the control plate on the guitar, of course, after you have removed the old electronics to make way for the new parts.

Bloody fantastic

So its off into town tomorrow in the hope somewhere has a tele control plate, and that it actually fits the damn guitar, and the parts I have for it.

So for the moment I have a tele with no controls or electronics, I may just wire the singlecoil to the selector and use it that way if I can't get hold of the bits I need soon...

Damn you fender, and damn you japan for seemingly having different sized parts from the rest of us...

David

Guitar into a bass amp will have a fairly large low end and a huge clean headroom, so a pedal would be essential for dirt

I remember trying an Ashdown five fifteen (65watt 1x15 bass combo) against my JCM2000 DSL401 (40 watt 1x12 guitar amp) and the Marshall came out on top for the sound I was after. Against a little 10 watt tranny amp the bass amp was awesome though

David

I was quite pleased when I got one of those, telling me I had to login for some reason or another

The only problem being me not owning a paypal account in the first place...

David

One thing I did wander when the smoking ban kicks in... What will bars smell like?

At the moment you go into a bar and it uniformly smells of smoke, and thats that, but if smoking is banned, the cloud of stale smoke will eventually lift away and leave us with what? the smell of spilt drinks and sweaty people? Excellent.

David

I remember I once found a magazine called Brave Words and Bloody Knuckles which was most cool for the rather heavey varietys of music (The one I found had Anthrax and Nevermore in it, and more stuff like that) but I never managed to find it again here

I occasionally buy Q, which varies between Radiohead/Pixiesesc more popular styles of 'alternative' music, and some more trendy stuff, which is ok if you need something to read but I wouldn't buy it often

Really there are no good magazines that give you a decent selection of 'alternative' music - by that I mean pretty much anything from Radiohead to Metallica, I guess such a broad area would leave most people only reading a couple of articles out of the whole thing and ignoring the rest, apart from the few awkward sods who like a bit of everything

The only magazine I buy regularly is a guitar one (Guitar Buyer)

David

Probably just as you said, the wood inside the hole has stripped a bit so it dosen't grip enough

the easy fix, jam in a matchstick, then screw in the screw again. the matchstick will take up some of the extra space and give the screw something to grip against. Repeat it with a few matchsticks and it should hold nicely.

If you want you could add in a few drops of wood glue or the like to make it that bit more solid.

The 'proper' way of doing it would be to drill out the hole bigger, plug it properly with a dowell then redril, but I prefer my method

David

Sold then

(You can take that as I will take the PS02 off your hands)

David

the ps02, does it have the power supply?

David

Art versus Engineering?

that kinda sums up some of it to me - making it up as you go along in your own style as you see fit, versus using building blocks to piece together something, perfectly organised, but dosen't always click as something from the heart can.

David