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aberdeen-music

fat ol' sun

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Posts posted by fat ol' sun

  1. Don't have a clue, it's discontinued now. I'll see how much they are going for on gumtree/ ebay/ etc... it would be that kind of ball park. Fair enough if it's something simpler you are after.

  2. The whole post thing is usually historical, "I bought the fence, hence the outer fence boundary will be placed up to the outer most limits of my property (empire)"

     

    Certainly nothing in law, but it can indicate who paid for the fence last time... wooly as fuck I grant you. If the fence is not repaired, and the bloke's dug does run around in your garden, I'd imagine that constitutes some sort of trespass.

     

    It does sound to me as if your fence was a party boundary the upkeep for which both of you are responsible. Probably best to see if you can't sort it amicably, not always easy with some people.

  3. Anyone know if a boundary fence between two houses has a presumption of joint ownership in Scotland?

     

    Fence blew down last night and deeds don't specify if it's a joint responsibility or not. Neighbour thinks I own it but I reckon it's both houses responsiblity.

    Sometimes, usually, but certainly not always, an indicator can be which side of the fence the posts are in. ie posts on your side could well be your fence. Wishy washy? Totally.

    I would be inclined to say a party fence, in the absence of any title deeds info, is shared ownership and shared responsibility...

    No charge for my pish advice btw

  4. yep neepheid is correct.

     

    Usually in an head/ cab situation you have a heavy duty 1/4" jack to 1/4" jack cable to connect your cab and head. With a combo you will more than likely have a cable soldered to your combo speaker with a 1/4" jack plug on the end. What you need is a 1/4" (or as maplin refer to it a 6.35mm) mono line socket connector. With half a heavy duty 1/4" plug to plug cable cut and soldered to the in line socket you can have an extention and connect you head to the combo without modifying any of your combo...

     

    If the solution sounds like what you are looking for I can message you the parts you would need from the likes of Maplin.

  5. eh, back to a Marshall...

     

    Try out a 2061 hand wired head.

     

    Takes to pedals and effects exceptionally well, including time domain pedals. Notably has no effects loop. A very simple circuit using a pair of ecc83's and a two el84's. 

     

    The circuit is based on a fender bassman. This amp has lovely bluesy cleans. Pricey though, but worth it. Essentially it is a bass and guitar amp in one, it has two channels harking back to the 60's when amps were expensive and thin on the ground, subsequently the bassist and guitarist would play through the same amp and head at the same time.

     

    Now, plug the inputs together and we have a very capable amp with separate voume and tone for two parallel circuits that get summed back together.

  6. Some very meaningful debate takes place in Holyrood. In comparison, if you have ever seen Scottish questions in Westminster the level of debate is dreadful. Lamont's conduct in Holyrood does much to demote debate in Holyrood to point scoring tribalism as opposed to the healthy consensual politics previously seen. The sooner she is replaced the better. It doesn't serve Scotland well to lower the quality of debate in the manner she does. Well there's my thrupence worth...

  7. Yup, Not able to try it out until the end of next week but looking forward to it. Was initiallly looking at fuzz faces but think the bender might do the trick.

     

    Still gutted my muff sounds kinda kack through my Marshall.

     

    what kind of muff is it?

    what marshall amp/ head/ combo are you using?

    what tone are you after?

  8. It's for connecting an expression pedal to an FX pedal - 1/4 inch stereo jack plugs and a foot of cable and i'm sorted. Maplins should sell them and they'll definitely have the bits to make one, I just can't be hooped trecking out there.

     

    What Aberdeen needs is a shop that sells exactly the musical kit I want, records I like and sandwiches.

     

    Any budding entrepreneurs out there who'd like to sell TONS of cables, strings, expensive fx pedals, mopey indie rock CD's and have a talent for making meatball subs/bbq chicken paninis take note........

    A totally investable proposition, I can see some poor sod getting his arse chewed off in the humiliation fest that is dragons den anytime now...

  9. 2 music shops in town - neither have a stereo patch cable, neither have any patch cables*.........

     

    I'm keen to buy local and happy to pay a little more than Amazon or Axesrus or whoever - keep some kind of stock on hand though guys!!

     

     

     

     

    *Imported Instruments actually did have ONE patch cable, but not a stereo one. Poetic licence etc.

    What kind of stereo patch cable are we talking about? There's a shitload of variants.

     

    Btw I totally agree about supporting local businesses only to find they have little stock. I guess that is all part and parcel of taking on on-line distributers though, stock on the shelf costs...

  10. If not toms classaxe in the market i remember them getting in some cool looking patch leads. Yet again dont know if their stereo. Even maplins maybe?

    Maplins is not a bad call. Even if they don't have them, i'd be surprised if they didnt have parts to make one up (if you have access to a soldering iron)

  11. So I got the RAT clone working today and it sounded immense. Then I put it in the case and it stopped working :(

     

    Looked like the problem was the board touching the bottom of the case so I went over the solder points and trimmed any sticking out wires then before I put the bottom back on I had a brainwave to stick a wee poly bag that some screws came in between the board and the case to insulate it.  Now that didn't work and when I took the bottom off and plugged it in again all that I get is a fucking horrible constant tone.

     

    I don't have time to dismantle it all tonight and check it so wondering if anyone has an opinion on what's happened? Could snipping the solder points have just knocked one of the components or is it more likely that using the wee bag has fucked it (though if something's shorted and fried why didn't it do it with the case)?

     

    Guess I'll have to dismantle it out of the case and just go through it all again. Really annoying.

     

    Anyone got any tips for what to do if the board is touching the case bottom?

    Rule 1, take your time. You are going to fix this, it will work again and every bit as good as when you were happy with it, but you will start by accepting this can not be rushed. Don't like to be dictotorial, but the seemingly longer systematic, methodical route is often the quickest.

     

    Probably you did short something live to the chasis, which you may or may not have grounded. If it wasn't grounded then you may have shorted two or more nodes together. If the unit hasn't worked since you shorted it you have done something irreversible - like blow a tranny or IC. If it works out the box then all is readily recoverable. The wee poly bag is unlikely to have blown anything as most ICs (since the 70's) have protection diodes on the inputs/ outputs. Germanium trannys are easily blown I'm told. No personal experience though.

     

    If you used tranny/ IC sockets and have spares you could try fault finding by substitution, ie plug in spares, does it go? type idea.

     

    The other thing about the poly bag insulator is that if your solder joints have sharp ends to them, they'd have little difficulty penetrating the bag and making their way to the chassis again. Trimming off the tops of the solder joints may have opened a node, or shorted two together. For a few bux you can buy a x9 magnifying glass. Give the board a squint through it.

     

    Key question is, does the assembly still work out of the box?

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