fat ol' sun

Just had a look at the cct diagram. Single op amp with enough compliance to drive a small speaker. I'm not familiar with the sound of it having never played one, but an additional amp section preceded by an attenuator pot would give you a master vol type control. You could crank up the current vol control to full for max distortion, the attenuator pot would control the vol without adding additional distortion much like a master vol. You would also need all the biasing, decoupling malarkey, in broad terms 40% of the existing comps again in terms of additional "stuff"

I'm pretty sure there's already a thread about this but I couldn't find it.

 

I was wondering if anyone out there would be able to mod' an MXR micro amp so it has a master volume control.

as in low volume, high distortion type tone?

Sorry, said the wrong thing in my first comment. The wiring diagrams I'd found all had phase and on/off switches, like Brian May.

The guitar is HSS and just has a 5-way switch, single tone and single volume. So I just want to keep it simple, no extra switches or anything. Just replace the existing single coils with these in the same setup, I just thought I'd check where the extra ground wires should go.

Yep, presuming conventional switching, you're good to solder the screen to ground (the vol pot case) and the "ref" or "cold" or "gnd" (what ever your diagram labels it) line to the pot case as well.

Easier done with low melting point solder and a good high power iron. If I'm stating the fucking obvious, apols, but I tend to use newspaper with a hole torn in it to protect the guitar finish from possible solder spatter of splash.

Hope it all goes well.

Burns Mini Tri-Sonics

So two of these pups. How are you fixed for switches, tone and volume pots - ie what's the layout, eg one switch, one vol, two tones??

You don't want parallel switching, what are your objectives function wise?

If you are going to try some series switching or layout, wiring both grounds of each to the pot base is unlikely to be an option.

I'd already had a look on allparts, but looks like axesrus have what I need in stock. Cheers guys.

Second modding question: The pickups I'm putting in have 2 ground wires each, one from the actual pickup and one from the metal outer casing. Would it be fine to solder them both to the back of the volume pot? The only info I can find for these pickups is for wiring them up for parallel switching which I'm not interested in.

What kind of pick ups are these?

true dat blud

 

we may not agree with youngA's decisions, we can try and give him as best advice possible and tell him the possibilities of the consequences of modding without reasonable skill, just leave it at that, stop hounding him like some overbearing finger wagging adult! we were all young and full enthusiasm once

If I am the over bearing figure waggling adult, it's not my intention to be so and certainly not to hound. The advice is given with the best of intentions, I'd sooner see somebody do a good job than a poor one.

yes I did I used a screw driver instead of a drill though

YoungA, I offer the following:

Boring a hole with a screwdriver instead of a drill is not at all good. It simply can not end well.

I made sure the holes were lines up with the intonation bar but since the bigsby wasn't wide enough I had to put it at an angle.

If the parts don't fit physically, you don't have the correct parts. Do not undertake the project and expect a positive result if you don't have the correct tools and parts.

There is bigsby style tremolos that require only the whole for the strap button by the way any way I got it checked out in ii music by Jamie , he said its fine I just re string it wrong

Jamie knows his stuff and is very polite.

Bridge post load will have little or nothing to do with whether this trem comes off the body. The main anchor point for the strings has moved back a couple of inches, and the back of the trem is secured by woodscrews.

Cheap woodscrews + amateur modder + unit that doesn't sit flush = oops...

Just had a look at a bigsby trem (it's been a while). There are no bridge posts.

If the trem is not perfectly square, there is a good chance there is a twisting torque about the wood screws to which you refer.

I've had a few people I know build electric guitars, make mods etc. The impression I get is that it is way more challenging than perceived. Matching necks to bodies be a significant challenge, which is readily fucked up.

The benefit of YA doing mods on guitars depends on whether you are learning anything from these projects. If you are then there is a value, but of course, an expense.

I've had it checked out by a guitar shop they say it's fine and if being squint won't affect the guitar

So I'm curious to know, if you don't mind me asking, did you have to drill any holes to do the mod?

Should be pretty simple to reverse the mod - you'll have a guitar with holes drilled in it and probably a fair bit of damage to the finish as well. If the trem unit is misaligned there's a chance of damage to the neck too.

Not really reversible then. By reversible I mean that the guitar is returned to it's original condition before the mod, holes to fill, finish to repair would negate that. Even if the holes are filled, the composition of the body of the guitar has changed. Some mods can be done that are wholly reversible, we'll hear in due course if this was one of them.

Not so sure about the neck comment, if the trem is asymmetrical wrt a line through the length of the neck, certainly the load on the neck will also be asymmetrical, but then I'd of thought that that is no different for all guitars. String tension on top three strings is of the order of 60lbs, tension in lower three strings is of the order of 45 -50lbs, hence asymmetrical load.

I'd say the main issue is string tension tearing the trem off the body - it looks like a cheap Bigsby ripoff rather than the real thing. Plus it's probably a unit designed for a flat top guitar so it's not going to be all that securely mounted.

As in the above, bridge post loads are dissimilar in a unmodified guitar.

Don't know too much about bigsby trems, had one on a guitar I kept for less than a year. Certainly never converted a guitar for bigsby installation.

Question is, is the mod reversible? If it is, the mod is nothing more than an experiment. I'm guessing holes and shit have been drilled. Nonetheless, the question is posed.

I want to try and play didgeridoo. I'll probably fail miserably though.

I also want to try a Bodhran. I'll probably fail miserably though.

I've got a didgeridoo. Got it from a family member who came back from a trip to Australia.

First thing in the instructions proved a little challenging. "The mouthpiece of your didgeridoo is formed from a honey based compound. You will need to mould this to your mouth. Place the didgeridoo outside in the sun until the mouthpiece is soft and offer it up to mouth to form a mouthpiece unique to you"

Not a lot of point waiting for the honey to soften in the sun of Aberdeen. I used a heat gun.

Biggest challenge to me was the circular breathing. Nail that and you'll probably do pretty well

Ryan, +1 for playing with other musos improves playing...

Also good for jamming technique in general. Different genres, different musos, different jams can seem taxing, but is ultimately beneficial.

The biggest problem I have can be falling into a comfortable zone where you can find yourself rehashing the same old same old. I've been there all to often and equally have seen some good musos do exactly the same. The more you break out the comfort zone, the more you learn/ absorb, the more rewarding you find playing.

Curiously I found playing, practicing and studying Jazz had the biggest positive effect (for the least effort) on my playing in general.

Good thread Chris.

A bloke called Rikky Rooksby has written a number of books, How to write Songs on Guitar, How to write and play great guitar Riffs and so on.

The last time I read through one of his books was a good few years ago and his product line appeared to be expanding in a similar vein fairly rapidly. The how to write songs.... is one of the better books for music theory imo. It's a pretty easy read and even a cursory flick through and noodle was pretty beneficial.

Are you saying you have contacted insurers and no one will insure you for the cat D write off?

garghhhh this is so complicated! ^ downloading  that as i type.

i'm confused the seller is saying that it was fixed by the insurer (but if i was it wouldnt have been a cat D write off?) and he doesnt have proof of the repair (ovbiously i can see it has been repaired but no proof as to where etc) (bummer coz he said he did)

but he also mentioned that after it was repaired the dvla issued a new v5c (thus confirming it was repaired) - is that true?

 

does any of this sound legit.....

 

edit: i also still dont know why cat D's occur.

if the repair cost + vot dont exceed the value of the car why would the insurer chose to write it off?

New V5 is a must, and is totally consistent with it being a write off.

The insurer would take possession of the car after its written off. Then either they would sell it on to a third party, or sell it back to the original owner for the salvage value (something of the order of 40% of the value of the car perhaps). So he would get the market value of the car less the salvage value. It would then be his responsibility to have it repaired and returned to road worthy, usually for a car that has sustained structural damage there would be a vin check to ensure its not a cut and shut (they check the Vehicle identity plate against data on file and make sure the plate hasn't been fucked with), equally the vin check might apply to all C and D cars, I'm not sure.

I'm confused as to how the insurer repaired it tbh. If they gave him money as per the above and he repaired it at a garage I can understand that, equally he could have repaired it himself?

Question for me is did he own it before it was written off, or is he a third party dude who bought a write off repaired it and is now selling it on?

Pish, last line of third para should read "engineer's" report, not "insurer's" report

Yep, try this...

https://www.abi.org.uk/Insurance-and-savings/Products/Motor-insurance/Written-off-or-total-loss-vehicles

There's a pdf, "code of practice re scrapping and salvaging of vehicles" download it have a scan, see what you think.