Soda Jerk Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 (edited) I want to buy a new bridge for my guitar. A 6 saddle toploader, to replace the current 3 saddle, because 3 saddle intonation suxxxx and I just can't get the G sounding right. I've never replaced a bridge before. Is there anything I need to look for, or can I just buy any Tele bridge? This is the bridge on the guitar now: This is the bridge I'm eyeing up:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-SADDLE-ASHTRAY-BRIDGE-FOR-FENDER-TELECASTER-CH-GD-/150827277067?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&var=&hash=item231e019b0b Do I need to get out a tape measure, or is a bridge a bridge? Will I have to drill? I hope not, because I don't own a drill. Tell me everything I need to know. Edited June 27, 2013 by Joda Serk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kybosh Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 (edited) this :http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/fender-tele-6-saddle-bridge-chrome-vintage-style-6985-p.asp is probably what you need , the screw holes and the pick up slot match a vintage tele bridge but you get 6 individual saddles should be just unscrew the old one and replace with new , job done Edited June 27, 2013 by kybosh Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colb Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 this :http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/fender-tele-6-saddle-bridge-chrome-vintage-style-6985-p.asp is probably what you need , the screw holes and the pick up slot match a vintage tele bridge but you get 6 individual saddles should be just unscrew the old one and replace with new , job doneNo. This one is for string thru body teles. The one in the first post seems to be a good enough replacement. Might be worth getting a top load only bridge instead of a dual-purpose one. So there's more metal and less holes innit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kybosh Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 never opened the pic before so didnt see the trem , this'll do it : http://www.guitarfetish.com/Xaviere-Tele-Roller-Bridge-for-Vibrato-System-Nickel-Finish_p_4419.html the bridge in the first post is a standard tele thro body too so it wont work either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kybosh Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 or this might look more original :http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-or-6-saddle-guitar-bridge-for-Telecaster-Tele-guitar-Toploader-Dual-Load-/260940213921#ht_2132wt_1172 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colb Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 never opened the pic before so didnt see the trem , this'll do it : http://www.guitarfetish.com/Xaviere-Tele-Roller-Bridge-for-Vibrato-System-Nickel-Finish_p_4419.html the bridge in the first post is a standard tele thro body too so it wont work either No again. The bridge in the first post is dual purpose...............so it will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Jerk Posted June 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Yeah, the description in the ebay link says it's for both. Not too fussed about the holes for through-body stringing, as they'll be under the saddles anyway. Finding a toploading-only bridge with the screws that match up to my guitar seems difficult, so a dual-purpose one doesn't bother me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kybosh Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 No again. The bridge in the first post is dual purpose...............so it will work.The description says its both but the one in the photos is through body only Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colb Posted June 27, 2013 Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 The description says its both but the one in the photos is through body only No for the 3rd time - you can see the holes in the back of the gold tailpiece in the photo (the red cloth shows through)...............and they're clearly marked on the drawing at the bottom of the ad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Jerk Posted July 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 I got the bridge in the original post. It definitely is both toploading and thru-body The new bridge doesn't quite line up as the old one did though, as it is slightly smaller. so I think I'll need to drill new holes. Problem being, I don't own a drill. Do I need a particular type of drill, or will any old drill do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 I got the bridge in the original post. It definitely is both toploading and thru-body The new bridge doesn't quite line up as the old one did though, as it is slightly smaller. so I think I'll need to drill new holes. Problem being, I don't own a drill. Do I need a particular type of drill, or will any old drill do? The best thing to use is a drill press to as far as possible guarantee straight holes (perpendicular to the body's surface). In the absence of a drill press, I use a Dremel with the cable draped over my shoulder and eyeballing down the barrel of it. For best results, you should drill out/fill the old holes with (hardwood) dowel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Jerk Posted July 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Yeah, the straightness of the hole is my biggest concern, especially as I don't think I've ever drilled anything, ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Broonbreed Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Try one of these http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-drill-guide-prod22269/ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 A man asking how to use a drill is like a woman asking how to insert a tampon. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Jerk Posted July 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Well I wouldn't want to lose any man-points, so I'll just go at it blindly, cover it in holes, and wreck my only guitar. Cos I'm well manly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
neepheid Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Try one of these http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-axminster-drill-guide-prod22269/ Cool, a mini drill press, might nab one of those Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 (edited) alignment, String up the 2 e strings with the new bridge just placed on, you will be using them as a guide. get them to the right length and pull the bridge back to keep strings from being slack. Eyeball the distance between the edge of the fret board and both strings to see when its straight, use taylors chalk/acetate pens to mark where the bridge will go, remove the strings and use the marks you just made to locate the bridge in the correct position. once you are confident mark exactly the middle point of where you are going to drill. Mask of the area around the drill holes in case you accidentally slip or start to have shaky hands always go in at right angles with the drill, make sure you have a good grasp of the guitar so it wont move, usually on the floor with a knee and hand on top place the drill-bit on the mark you made, start slow, don't push the drill down, the weight of the drill will do this job for you. when reached the correct deepness, removed the drill will still pressing the drill trigger, most people stop and then try and remove it just by pulling, it will stick that way drill little holes slightly narrower than the screws, use a little bit of electrical tape to mark on the drill-bit so you know how deep to go. Edited July 3, 2013 by fatboy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 also if this is a fender scale tele then the exact distance from the nut to the saddle, exactly where the string bends over should be 25.5 inches have the saddles bang on halfway of their threaded adjustment and intonate once installed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Jerk Posted July 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 also if this is a fender scale tele then the exact distance from the nut to the saddle, exactly where the string bends over should be 25.5 inches have the saddles bang on halfway of their threaded adjustment and intonate once installed If that's the case, then will I need to locate a bridge which is the exact same dimensions as the one I'm intending to replace? The one I've gotten hold of is about 0.5cm narrower, and because the pickup cavity is JUST big enough for the p/u to sit in, the bridge could have to sit a little further forward, closer to the neck. This is the size difference: Will that be a factor? Or would I be fine to just wind the saddles right in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 If that's the case, then will I need to locate a bridge which is the exact same dimensions as the one I'm intending to replace? The one I've gotten hold of is about 0.5cm narrower, and because the pickup cavity is JUST big enough for the p/u to sit in, the bridge could have to sit a little further forward, closer to the neck. This is the size difference: Will that be a factor? Or would I be fine to just wind the saddles right in? from the length of the adjustment you have I would say that it would be ok, how close would the original holes be to the new ones you intend to drill. if they are very close the integrity of them may be impaired Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 also is the bridge narrow enough to fit in the gap on the scratchplate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Jerk Posted July 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 The new holes would probably need to be about half a centimetre to the right, so the new bridge sits in that gap in the stratchplate the same way the original bridge does. I believe it's definitely the right size to do so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fatboy Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 half a centimeter won't be a problem. I'd easily do the job for you if you aren't keen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soda Jerk Posted July 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2013 half a centimeter won't be a problem. I'd easily do the job for you if you aren't keen. Your instructions seem to be very thorough, so think I should be okay. There was a few things I'd not taken into account. You mentioned about having all the saddles halfway on the screw. Each screw is a slightly different length, so they would align like a slope if I was to do this. Would that be right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.