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Telecaster bridge advice


Soda Jerk
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I want to buy a new bridge for my guitar. A 6 saddle toploader, to replace the current 3 saddle, because 3 saddle intonation suxxxx and I just can't get the G sounding right.

 

I've never replaced a bridge before. Is there anything I need to look for, or can I just buy any Tele bridge?

 

 

This is the bridge on the guitar now:

IMAG0140_zps766d3372.jpg

 

This is the bridge I'm eyeing up:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-SADDLE-ASHTRAY-BRIDGE-FOR-FENDER-TELECASTER-CH-GD-/150827277067?pt=UK_Guitar_Accessories&var=&hash=item231e019b0b

 

Do I need to get out a tape measure, or is a bridge a bridge? Will I have to drill? I hope not, because I don't own a drill.

 

Tell me everything I need to know.

Edited by Joda Serk
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this :

http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/fender-tele-6-saddle-bridge-chrome-vintage-style-6985-p.asp

 

is probably what you need , the screw holes and the pick up slot match a vintage tele bridge but you get 6 individual saddles :)

 

should be just unscrew the old one and replace with new , job done

No. This one is for string thru body teles.

 

The one in the first post seems to be a good enough replacement. Might be worth getting a top load only bridge instead of a dual-purpose one. So there's more metal and less holes innit.

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Yeah, the description in the ebay link says it's for both. Not too fussed about the holes for through-body stringing, as they'll be under the saddles anyway.

 

Finding a toploading-only bridge with the screws that match up to my guitar seems difficult, so a dual-purpose one doesn't bother me.

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The description says its both but the one in the photos is through body only

 

No for the 3rd time - you can see the holes in the back of the gold tailpiece in the photo (the red cloth shows through)...............and they're clearly marked on the drawing at the bottom of the ad.

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I got the bridge in the original post. It definitely is both toploading and thru-body

 

The new bridge doesn't quite line up as the old one did though, as it is slightly smaller. so I think I'll need to drill new holes. Problem being, I don't own a drill. Do I need a particular type of drill, or will any old drill do?

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I got the bridge in the original post. It definitely is both toploading and thru-body

 

The new bridge doesn't quite line up as the old one did though, as it is slightly smaller. so I think I'll need to drill new holes. Problem being, I don't own a drill. Do I need a particular type of drill, or will any old drill do?

 

The best thing to use is a drill press to as far as possible guarantee straight holes (perpendicular to the body's surface).  In the absence of a drill press, I use a Dremel with the cable draped over my shoulder and eyeballing down the barrel of it.  For best results, you should drill out/fill the old holes with (hardwood) dowel.

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 alignment, String up  the 2 e strings with the new bridge just placed on, you will be using them as a guide.

 

get them to the right length and pull the bridge back to keep strings from being slack. Eyeball the distance between the edge of the fret board and both strings to see when its straight, use taylors chalk/acetate pens to mark where the bridge will go,

 

remove the strings and use the marks you just made to locate the bridge in the correct position.

 

once you are confident mark exactly the middle point of where you are going to drill. 

 

Mask of the area around the drill holes in case you accidentally slip or start to have shaky hands

 

always go in at right angles with the drill, make sure you have a good grasp of the guitar so it wont move, usually on the floor with a knee and hand on top

 

place the drill-bit on the mark you made, start slow, don't push the drill down, the weight of the drill will do this job for you.

 

when reached the correct deepness, removed the drill will still pressing the drill trigger, most people stop and then try and remove it just by pulling, it will stick that way

 

drill little holes slightly narrower than the screws,

 

use a little bit of electrical tape to mark on the drill-bit so you know how deep to go.

Edited by fatboy
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also if this is a fender scale tele then the exact distance from the nut to the saddle, exactly where the string bends over should be 25.5 inches

 

have the saddles bang on halfway of their threaded adjustment and intonate once installed

 

If that's the case, then will I need to locate a bridge which is the exact same dimensions as the one I'm intending to replace? The one I've gotten hold of is about 0.5cm narrower, and because the pickup cavity is JUST big enough for the p/u to sit in, the bridge could have to sit a little further forward, closer to the neck.

 

This is the size difference:

9ggfg5.jpg

 

Will that be a factor? Or would I be fine to just wind the saddles right in?

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If that's the case, then will I need to locate a bridge which is the exact same dimensions as the one I'm intending to replace? The one I've gotten hold of is about 0.5cm narrower, and because the pickup cavity is JUST big enough for the p/u to sit in, the bridge could have to sit a little further forward, closer to the neck.

 

This is the size difference:

9ggfg5.jpg

 

Will that be a factor? Or would I be fine to just wind the saddles right in?

 

 

from the length of the adjustment you have I would say that it would be ok, 

 

how close would the original holes be to the new ones you intend to drill. if they are very close the integrity of them may be impaired 

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half a centimeter won't be a problem.

 

I'd easily do the job for you if you aren't keen.

 

Your instructions seem to be very thorough, so think I should be okay. There was a few things I'd not taken into account.

 

You mentioned about having all the saddles halfway on the screw. Each screw is a slightly different length, so they would align like a slope if I was to do this. Would that be right?

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