Dan G Posted January 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 No it doesn't, thats what confuses me, but it is DEFINITELY not the guitar or my leads, as I have checked them all out multiple times. The amp sounds fine, until a lead is plugged in. ?( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundian Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 Is it the same with other peoples guitars etc plugged into it? Is your set-up fine through other amps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Savant Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 Dan if it's the 50W head (which you have) you don't have to balance the valves. Just buy the fuckers and stick them in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan G Posted January 21, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 my set up is fine through other amps, and other guitars make the amp crackle as well.I'm positive its the amp.Basically, when you plug something in it makes a really annoying crackling noise that gets louder in direct proportion to turning up the master volume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundian Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 Sounds like the pre-amp then. Since the noise gets worse when you stick it on over-drive I don't think it's the output stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craig deadenstereo Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 Originally posted by soundian:Top?Oh, right. My amp is in a homemade box and you take the top off to get at it. Do you takew the back off normal heads? Never had enough money to afford one in a real box! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General Ermintrude Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 Am I right in thinking that ,if the HT fuse keeps blowiing, then the power valves are up fuck street? Should the HT fuse be fast or slow burn? (1973 50w Marshall Artiste) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mr Blastcap Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 paravion are offering a gig in e-burgh min Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
General Ermintrude Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 super! when? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mr Blastcap Posted January 21, 2004 Report Share Posted January 21, 2004 fuck knows, the drummers after a cd- what about right after we play ATP? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeC Posted January 22, 2004 Report Share Posted January 22, 2004 Originally posted by General Ermintrude:Am I right in thinking that ,if the HT fuse keeps blowiing, then the power valves are up fuck street? Should the HT fuse be fast or slow burn? (1973 50w Marshall Artiste) Yes thats a sure sign that a power amp valve is fucked...the fuse should be a slow blow I believeI cant remember what power valves were fitted to those amps but its ok to replace them with el34's with some minor adjustments and biasing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GraemeC Posted January 22, 2004 Report Share Posted January 22, 2004 Originally posted by Tav:Hmm I dunno but valve amps have lethal voltages in them so I wouldn't go in. Once you turn them off there's still voltages lurking around. If you unplug the amp and leave the power and standby switches on for 20 mins or so...its then safe enough to work on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Karloff Posted January 22, 2004 Report Share Posted January 22, 2004 FYI, I phoned Marshall and asked them to quote me on a re-valve. They said they won't do it that way, but instead will collect your amp and give it a full once over, then phone you and tell you what it needs and will cost before proceeding. If you don't wanna do it, they'll send it back and all you'll have paid is a measly few quid for the postage down and back. Like I said, they did mine and it's the best it EVER sounded. I figure it probably got some abuse and mis-use in the shop before I bought it, but now it's uber reliable, runs at a nice temperature, and sounds kickass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest redmeat Posted January 22, 2004 Report Share Posted January 22, 2004 Originally posted by craig deadenstereo:Look, all this electrocuting yourself bullshit isn't going to happen. I wouldn't count on itJust change them yourself. I've done it hundreds of times, no probs. I don't believe that for a secondAll this shipping it to Marshall stuff is a load of crap: it will be expensive and you'll not have your amp for a while.Marshall has arguably the best service in the world (I don't even play a marshall)The biasing stuff is bullshit as well, you're not really going to notice a difference, and putting in new valves will not blow up your amp. ?????????http://www.watfordvalves.com/pdfs/guitaristv02-01_biasing.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted January 23, 2004 Report Share Posted January 23, 2004 biasing isnt necessary when you revalve an amp.but if the valves are different (which is very likely) they will run slightly colder, and not sounds as good, or run hotter, which will sound good but will wear out the valves much quickerso for best sound/valve life, its best to make sure the amp is biased properlyi would check out some of the guides on the net about rebiasing, if you feel you could do it yourself, and have the equipment, then give it a go, worstcase you could always get it rebiased again by a pro if you really screw things upif you arent too sure, then get it done by a pro, marshall seem like a good bet from what others have said about their after sales helpDavid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan G Posted January 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 got my valves through the post yesterday.Took the back off myself, changed JUST the pre-amp valves and it worked fine! So thanks to all those who gave advice. I didn't fancy fixing the power/output valves - with all that biasing etc - so it was lucky it was just a pre-amp problem!I also didn't kill myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
threeornothing Posted January 28, 2004 Report Share Posted January 28, 2004 Just remember.X O X O| |__|__||____|where X and O must be matched valves. ie. if any of valve's X go, replace both, and if any of valve's O blow, replace both Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.